voices from the heart of Leyton
voices from the heart of Leyton
a local history and reminiscence project by Age Exchange bringing together young and older residents of Leyton and Leytonstone

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1930-1960's memories of terraced streets
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Heritage Lottery Fund
“The nearest shop to go to was right down to Leyton High Road, which was a good walk down, to get a bus to Bakers Arms or get a bus to Stratford or you had to walk right through to Harrow Green up here to get a bus up to Leytonstone where you had Tesco. And then if you had shopping it was carrying it you know. And when I used to get back, two storeys high, all stone stairs, by the time I used to get up there, you used to be tired out”
Len Allsop
 
 
quoteYou wouldn't recognise the High Street now from
what it wasquote
Bert Watson
High Road
Leytonstone High Road, c.1950.
“I used to have to go before I went to school. Go to the butcher's and the green grocer's and that, and there used to be a company called Williams Brothers and she used to give us a list and we used to have to go down, right down to Markhouse Road almost, to take the order and then they would deliver it you know. Used to get a hapenny to get on the bus or tram to get there, but you ran all the way there and bought a hapenny's sweets”
Kathleen Vernon
“I remember the butchers and the cattle going in to be slaughtered and it was lovely meat. On Saturday nights they sold it off cheap. All the meat was hanging outside. We'd get a nice Sunday joint half price. Because we didn't have fridges, we'd put it in a pail of water or make a hole in the ground and cover a wet cloth over the top. You brought stuff fresh every day then, not like we do now”
Rose Adams
High Road 1950
Leytonstone High Road
Looking North, from south of Gainsborough Road, c.1950.
Victoria Road
Advertising hoardings at junction of Victoria Road with Leytonstone High Road, c.1959.
“Leytonstone High Street was a very long street. There was a big department store called Bearmans. It was huge with all fabrics and furniture and stuff like that. When you paid they put the money into a little bowl which was sealed and then it would be whizzed across to the cashiers”
Leslie Savill
quoteI used to live on the posh side of Leyton High Road, and Margaret used to live on the other side. It was like that in those daysquote
Brian Wilks
Bearmans used to have a fantastic Father Christmas. But you had to be middle class to shop in there. They had a lovely tea place downstairs with all the cake stands, and they brought out your tray with your little cups and saucers. The co-op took it over in the late 60's. It was kept quiet for six months, my mother in law worked there. They kept it quiet because they had so many account holders there, as soon as that came out everybody cancelled. People from Wanstead and Woodford did not deal with the Co-op! It was called Pioneer, for a short while, so that it didn't sound like Co-op. It closed within six months. People just didn't go in there”
Margaret Wilks
Lea Bridge Road
Lea Bridge Road
The banks of the River Lea burst on 16th July 1949, having also burst in 1947. Water supply was affected and flood prevention measures were drawn up.
(left) Advertising hoarding for the Bearmans Sale on the corner of Gainsborough Road and Leytonstone High Road, 1956.
(Image courtesy of Vestry House Museum)
Origins of the name Beaumont
Frederick Edward Blackett Beaumont (1833 - 1899), was a Major of the Royal Engineers and inventor of a tunneling machine which bore his name, as did the Beaumont-Adams revolver. In 1881 a car driven by the Beaumont compressed air engine was tested on Leytonstone High Road by the North Metropolitan Tramways Co. It is likely that the name Beamont Road, and later the Beaumont Estate derived from him.
 
 
No 38 Omnibus
No 38 Omnibus
Victoria to Chingford service, outside the London Cooperative Society, Lea Bridge Road c.1949.
“They used the same wires as the trams did. Obviously, that was the idea of trolley buses. When you got off a tram, you had to walk in the bleedin' road to get to the pavement. You could get knocked down, I suppose”
Bert Watson
Underground Station
Leyton Underground Central line station Photograph taken in 1964.
The underground first opened Central line stations between Stratford and Leytonstone in May 1947.
“With the coming of the railways in the mid to late 19th century, you had an increase in the working class population coming in; to work and help build the railways but also to take up some of the jobs for businesses that grew as a result of the railways. You had factories being built, and the large mansions were being broken up by speculative builders who were providing new terraced homes for working and lower middle class people. So the population of the area increased hugely as a result of what you might call the Industrial Revolution”
Peter Ashan
Leyton Green Bus Garage
Leyton Green Bus Garage
This is one of many records of bomb sites in the Vestry Museum Archive. The government recorded damage but censored the location for secrurity resons. The image shows extensive bomb damage, and could be Leyton Green Bus garage.
Leyton Green Bus GarageLeyton Green Bus Garage, Leyton High Road.
Photograph taken by Joan King from her flat in All Saints Tower c.1964.

The flat roofed brick building to the left hand side, the rear maintenance shed and the roof were completely reconstructed after extensive bomb damage during the Second World War.
A day out
Kitty Cantwell and friend on a day out to Bournemouth, aged 16.
“East London Buses used to run trips to the seaside - we would supply a bus and a driver. There were also Seasiders on a Sunday where we would drive set routes to the coast, Southend, Brighton, Bournemouth and lots of other places”
Alan King

“My dad worked on the railway and he used to get free tickets for us to go to the seaside, Southend or somewhere, and that was our life”
Kathleen Vernon
Warner Houses
The Warner housing estates are well known in Leytonstone and Walthamstow. They are brick built with distinctive arched doorways and pointed roofs on projecting bay fronts. The Warner Estate Company was established in 1891 by Sir Thomas Warner of Woodford Green. His idea was to take control of the whole process from building to letting homes, through his own estate offices.

 

Warner Houses
Two Warner houses each containing a pair of small flats.
“They belonged to Warners that estate. So I kept going down there every week asking them for somewhere for us to live together like a couple, you know. We had a little kitchen and we shared half the garden and the toilet, oh god....it was buckets. I'd got a small child so I was walking around with it in my hand all the time. I went down to Warners and told them I needed to move..

..and that I heard that these people round Coppermill Lane were going. So I went down Warners and said "Could I have their flat? Cos it has an indoor toilet?" They gave it to me and it was heaven. I said to my daughter "Come here I want to show you something." And I opened the toilet door and I said "This is ours!" I know it seems funny but looking back it was a luxury, absolute heaven!”
Kitty Cantwell
“I was about 7 when we moved to Leytonstone. We lived at number 9 Esther Road, in a row of terraced houses. All the houses had very small front gardens with a little fence and a small piece of grass but narrow long back gardens. It had a bay window at the front, the lounge faced out into the road and there was a dining room and a kitchen and then the toilet was outside, like a small yard. Later on in the war we had an Anderson shelter at the bottom of the garden. When we first moved [in] we had gas mantles and also a very black stove in the kitchen”
Leslie Savill
“My mother in law lived in Beaumont Road. We had our wedding reception there, just family and a couple of friends. The kids all said to me "Joan, come on come out". I thought sod it I might as well. So there we was. It wasn't actually a lamppost, it was a telegraph pole and we had a big rope round it and I used to swing all the kids round it. We'd be skipping in the road. We weren't worried about cars. We'd play knock down ginger. I was like a kid really”
Joan King
“I was born in Sidmouth Road in Leyton opposite the Coronation Gardens. We lived upstairs in three rooms. There were six of us with mum because our father died when I was born. There was somebody living downstairs- we all shared the same toilet. We had no bathroom, nothing like that in those days”
Lillian Emberson
quoteMy Dad loved his gardenquote
Rose Adams
77 Beaumont Road
77 Beaumont Road, rear garden filled with flowers, vegetables and outbuildings remembered by Rose Adams.
“Dad kept pigeons in a shed and we used to go to Chingford to release them. Then he knocked the shed down and built a summer house, that was what we called it. It had a fold up bed. Then he took it down and built the Anderson shelter.We used to climb on the top of it and you could look right over and see Shelley Road alley”
Rose Adams
Rose and DorisRose and Doris outside the summer house at 77 Beaumont Road c.1934.
Maud, Joan, Rose, Irene, and Doris Mears, with Peggy the dogMaud, Joan, Rose, Irene, and Doris Mears, with Peggy the dog, in the garden at 77 Beaumont Road c.1939.
(Images kindly loaned by Rose Adams.)
quoteThere was Gardner's shop on one corner, and Nash's shop on the other. Me and my sisters would go in and get all mother's shopping. It was always on the bookquote
Rose Adams
Nash's
Nash's cut price stores, were on Beaumont Road at the opposite corners of Shelley Road
Gardner's
Gardner's shop, selling general provisions
“We could play in the street because there was no traffic. Another neighbour would come out with a skipping rope and you'd skip in the middle of the road. The mothers would join in. We had hoops which we used to do and spinning tops. We used to play Jimmy Jimmy Knacker where one stood up the wall and the other one had to run and jump on his back”
Doris Chapman

 

'Find a bit of wood, put a bit of string round it and it would spin round. You would play cob stones and things like that'
Bert Watson
Doris and Gladys Doris and Gladys Mears, photo taken in the garden at 77 Beaumont Road c.1934. Photograph kindly loaned by Rose Adams
KittyKitty Cantwell and her sister Josie, 1931. Kitty is proudly wearing the scarf and hat she was given for Christmas.
Photograph kindly loaned by Kitty Cantwell.
'They were dressed up as a bride and groom. Gladys has a pipe. We had bubble blowing pipes to play with'
Rose Adams
“I had 7 sisters and mum had a boy but he died at 9 months. It was like a cottage house. We only had two bedrooms. We slept in one bed, three up two down. We had good times though. My father didn't talk to us a lot but he loved us all. He had one of those big thick belts. If you were out late he was very strict. If we were going out with a friend we had to bring them home first to let him or mum see them”
Rose Adams
Rose Adams
'This is me outside my sister's house in Chingford in 1931'
Rose Adams
'And this is me outside my house, 77 Beaumont Road about 1937, when I was 13'Rose Adams
“We moved over to Frith Road just over the other side of the Leyton Bridge near Leyton Station. Then we got bombed out. I lost a sister with the bombing. She was only 24. Then mum just walked up the road and saw a little house empty and we moved in”
Lillian Emberson

 

Bomb damage
Image shows bomb damaged house in Leyton, one of many records of censored bomb sites in the Vestry Museum Archive.
Wedding day
Sidney and Kitty Cantwell on their wedding day, 23rd April 1941.
Image kindly loaned by Kitty Cantwell
“My husband didn't have much work. He was trying to get a job then, coming out the Army. Most jobs were building because the buildings had been bombed and they were repairing”
Kitty Cantwell
George Mitchell School was previously known as Farmer Road School. It opened in 1903 as a school for boys and girls of all ages. During the 1940s, it became a secondary boys' school, and remained so for 40 years. In 1986, it became co-educational, admitting boys and girls from 11-16 years. In 1957, the school was renamed in honour of George Mitchell, who attended the school from 1923-1927. He won the Victoria Cross during the Second World War.
'They would turn the radio on so that we couldn't hear the bombing outside'
Margaret Wilks
This picture is taken in the ground floor hall at George Mitchell School. In the background are the doors to the school's steel reinforced air raid shelter- a single room into which the whole school would stay during an air raid. Margaret Wilks is sitting in the second row, third from right.
School photo
Class photo, 1946. Image kindly loaned by Margaret Wilks.
“The primary school I went to was called Connaught Road School, which wasn't far from Leytonstone tube station. If the siren went we would come out of our classrooms into a corridor where there were brick walls. Sometimes when we first started we'd go down into the Anderson shelter. Later mum became a bit fatalistic and she thought if our time was up it would happen so we didn't often go down into the shelter”
Leslie Savill
Celebrating the end of the Second World War

“Mother broke her arm on VE day, so she isn't in the photo. She had climbed on a chair to reach the high larder, which was to keep your food cooler. She was ripening tomatoes up there. The chair tipped and she fell”

(top) May 1945. VE day street party, Vicarage Road.
(bottom) August 1945. VJ day street party, Vicarage Road.
Photographs kindly loaned by Margaret Wilks
Margaret Wilks
'Everyone brought Spam and jam sandwiches,
I remember being sick from eating cakes for the first time after the war'
Brian Wilks
(right) Essex v. Middlesex 31st July 1957. Lyttleton Ground, Leyton High Road.

(far right) Daily Express cricket fixtures card. Kindly loaned by Leslie Savill

 

Essex v Middlesex


Les Savill
Les Savill batting at Leyton against Middlesex Image kindly loaned by Leslie Savill
Daily Express
“I remember in 1957 Essex re-introduced playing at the Leyton County Ground. We called it the Leyton Week. We played Middlesex and Worcester that August week. It was a good week for weather. I remember the amazing pavilion. We had very good crowds. We managed to beat Middlesex even though Dennis Compton made 100. I had a good match against Worcester. It was a good batting wicket. Trevor Bailey and myself had a good partnership. Trevor got 100 and I got 78. It was very nice to have played at Leyton. I think that game was a draw. In 1959 I was awarded my cap on the Leyton County Ground when we played Gloucester. It was announced.”
Leslie Savill
“I used to belong to Leyton Football Club, the amateurs. They used to hold dances. I met my husband as we both used to work in the tea bar. If you had a cup match away there used to be about 6 coaches but now you've got nothing”
Doris Chapman
Crowd scene
The crowd at Leyton Orient Football Club, Brisbane Road, Leyton, 1945
“We used to play in Leytonstone in the street. My dad would always encourage me to do football and cricket. We had a lamppost in our road so we'd use that as a wicket. There was an elderly lady who lived opposite and if we hit it into her garden she would get angry and wouldn't give us our ball back. She would look at me and say “Its battling Bill from Buckhurst Hill”. She wasn't very fond of me”
Leslie Savill
“You could get a jar of ginger beer for half a crown from the cart, it was our Saturday morning luxury”
Rose Adams
 
 
Biddel and Gingell Ltd
Biddel and Gingell Ltd. Mineral water and ginger beer manufacturer's based at 5 Clyde Place. This image shows delivery lorries parked outside the factory in 1959.
“My father was in the docks then, they came out on strike and they sacked them all so he started his own business up and he had a shop in Leyton High Road. He used to work the markets. Caledonian market on Walthamstow High Street and Brick Lane on Sunday mornings”
Doris Chapman
Local Employment
“I went to join Sainsbury's. It was a training session at Blackfriars. Then on the 1st of April I was allocated to a shop in Walthamstow. Margaret was the cashier in the office and I was the counter hand. And that's when we met. When the manager found out they transferred me because married couples weren't allowed to work together in those days”
Brian Wilks
“When we moved to Leytonstone my mum was a dressmaker. She also did some piecework making lampshades. She got paid so much for however many lampshades she did”
Leslie Savill
Knitting deptKnitting department at City Knitwear Ltd, Lea Bridge Road, Leyton, 1957. The company employed 160 staff at the factory and 400 outworkers.
Confectionary shop
Louis Green and his assistant pictured behind the counter of his confectionary shop at 276 Church Road, Leyton, in 1957.
“They'd all go out Saturday nights and as kids we used to leave the window open, lean out and wait for the pub to close then the fights would start”
Lillian Emberson
 
 
Northcote pub
Northcote Pub, Grove Green Road, Corner of Francis Road, 1959.
“I said “Good evening” and he says “I'm from the local church, I'm trying to organise a youth group and we're trying to get some money to buy something for the kids”. So I says, “Oh yes” and he said “Would it be alright to come in and sell the brochures?” I told him that would be no problem. He said “We'll come in about 6 o'clock” so I said “No”, and he said “I'm sorry if that would upset people coming in”. So I said “You're looking for money, what time do you finish?”, “About half past nine” so I said “Come in here about 9 o'clock, they won't look at what they're putting in the box by then!”
Patrick Rennie (former landlord of the Northcote Pub)
“A lot of women used to pawn their boy's suits and get worried because they'd have to get it out before the weekend, in case they wanted it. I've known my mum to buy a pair of shoes for me because I wanted to go to Southend once. I was only a kid and I said I wanted to go there with one of the neighbours, but it was half a crown. She had a new pair of shoes and she pawned them to let me go to Southend for the day”
Lillian Emberson
Ice cream and toffee(top) Italian ice cream seller
(bottom) Indian toffee seller
“We had a muffin man come round on a Sunday with a tray on his head. He'd ring a bell. In the afternoon someone would come and sell second hand comics. The man used to come round selling cockles. We had an ice-cream man with his barrow. There were street entertainers. A men's troop used to come round dressed up as women and they'd dance. Some of the women used to bring the chairs out and sit at their doors to watch. They were dressed as comical women with frilly frocks and things like that. We used to have an Indian man which was very strange because we'd never seen an Indian man. He used to weigh you for happenny and give you an Indian toffee. The street doors were never shut.The only time they were shut was on a Saturday morning when the tallyman (the hire purchase collector) used to come round for his money”
Lillian Emberson
Public Baths

Leyton baths were really popular. They used to have dances, boxing, wrestling, roller skating, ice skating and school galas. It was a big part of the community in its day. During the winter it was all boarded over. (Comments from the Steering group)

“Bath night was a wash down. Mum put us in a tin bath but as we got older we used to go round to the communal baths in Cathall Road. You'd go in and she'd give you a towel and a bar of soap. They were individual places and then you asked for either hot or cold water. If she thought you were in there a long while she'd be banging on your door”
Lillian Emberson
Dancing
quoteWe used to go up the forest and over the marshes and have no fearquote
Doris Chapman
Easter fair
Easter Fair at council's Pleasure Ground, Lea Bridge Road, 1957.


Cinemas

“There was that one in Gainsbury, you come up the High Street and had that one in Buxton Road, which is still there now. You had the Carlton. Round the corner you had a Granada. That was more or less in the High Street itself. You had four cinemas, and now you ain't got one”
Bert Watson
AdvertisementAdvertisement in the Walthamstow Guardian, 3rd June 1950.
“On Sundays I'd go to Coronation Gardens to see the live band. They used to have a concert there every Wednesday and Saturday and you could stand outside and watch that or pay to go in. Then they had the band on a Sunday night, and it used to be packed. You could never get a seat”
Rose Adams
Extract
Extract from the letters page of the Walthamstow Guardian, 2nd June 1972
Amateur dramatics
Members of Leyton Civil Defence formed an amateur dramatics group staging performances at the Civil defence head quarters building opposite St Mary's Church in Church Road. This picture taken in 1972, was a farce in which Brian Wilks played the vicar.
Image kindly loaned by Brian Wilks